On Tuesday night, March 3, more than 45 folks crowded into the Marion, Illinois Extension Office to learn more about the rules and regulations that dictate how farmers, ranchers and other producers can safely and responsibly sell their value-added products to a marketplace that has shown a demonstrably growing hunger for locally grown and produced goods.
The workshop, called Food Rules, featured a set of six panelists - three from Illinois agencies, including the very colorful (and soon to be retiring) John Rottman, the Williamson/Franklin Bi-County Health Department’s Supervising Sanitarian; Mark Sterrett, Department of Public Health Regional Supervisor (Food, Drugs and Dairies) in Marion; and Rodney Cruise with the Illinois Department of Agriculture. The workshop balanced things out with three other panelists who were growers and producers, including Ernie Duckworth, strawberry grower and Chair of Benton Farmers’ Market; Kitten Lee, caterer and seller of baked goods in Du Quoin and the Benton Farmers’ Market; and Ryne Tharp, Produce Manager at Neighborhood Co-op Grocery in Carbondale and producer of grass-fed beef and sheep.
A very compelling part of the evening featured the agency reps, who helped the audience better understand, from a first-hand perspective, some of the reasons that dictate the seemingly inscrutable state and federal regulations that impede smaller growers and producers from sampling and selling their value-added edible goods at farmers' markets or other retail outlets.
For example, John Rottman, who has had three decades of Illinois Health Department experience in dealing with food sanitation issues, said that there were five areas that create potential “risk factors” for consumers: hygienic practices, food from unsafe sources, inadequate cooking, improper holding temps, and improper equipment.
“There are documented cases of health problems related to home-cooked products,” he said.
Rottman didn’t deny, however, that the health department for which he and his colleagues work was not without fault.
“Is our policy good?," he asked. "No, it’s not good, in my opinion. Some local health departments are doing one thing and some the other and some aren't doing a thing. In a nutshell, there are regulations and all health departments need to talk.”
Mark Sterrett and Rodney Cruise, the other officials at the Food Rules workshop, also represented their positions well at the workshop.
The other three panelists, Ryne Tharp, Ernie Duckworth, and Kitten Lee, brought up issues from the producer end of the spectrum. Tharp, who is also the Produce Manager at Neighborhood Co-op Grocery, explained how his department worked with more than 40 local fruit, nut and vegetable growers and producers. Furthermore, when local beef, bison, salmon and other value-added products were included, Tharp said the Neighborhood Co-op spent more than $105,000 patronizing local and regional producers in 2008.
After the panelists finished their brief presentations, the floor was opened up for a question and answer period. A lot of great questions were asked, and the panelists did their best to address specific situations, but in the end, it seemed like a couple of key issues remained unresolved. Two main points that come to mind are the lack of small meat processing facilities in the state and the difficulties in trying to make artisanal cheeses from cow or goat milk.
At the close of the workshop, however, a rather remarkable phenomenon took place. The room erupted into a din of discourse as folks were eager to share their issues and experiences with each other as well as the panelists. This rather informal epilogue to the workshop emphatically punctuated the necessity for growers, producers, state officials and food advocates to gather and communicate beyond a strictly formal level. Food rules and regulations need to be respected and responsibly followed, of course, but local food and local products should also be allowed to express themselves to the fullest extent possible.
Post script: All of this could not have happened without the The Land Connection and the U of I Extension. Terra Brockman of The Land Connection and Deborah Cavanaugh-Grant, an Extension Specialist for Small Farms and Sustainable Agriculture, are to be highly commended. Thanks to Ed Billingsley from the Marion Extension Office as well. The tireless efforts and advocacy of such good folks advance the entrepreneurial efforts of smaller local growers and producers to earn a respectable living - a living that represents so many of the values that we hold near and dear to our hearts our homes (and our stomachs).
In a nutshell, Local Matters.
[Photo caption: Deborah Cavanaugh-Grant (left) and Terra Brockman distribute post-workshop surveys to the Food Rules workshop audience on Tuesday, March 3 at the Marion, Ill. Extension Office]
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